Vacation Travel – a “Two-World” Perspective
By Mel Copen August 27, 2000
© Mel Copen, August, 2000
Although the size of the United States suggests traveling by air, if one has the time, nothing can match seeing the country by car. It is not only that the countryside looks very different from ground zero vs. 30,000 feet up, car travel provides things that cannot be achieved when using more rigid and regimented forms of transportation. Whenever time permits, I much prefer the tradeoff between speed, on the one hand, and the ability to immerse myself in the world around. Flying seems like an exercise of connecting the dots while driving is akin to painting the whole picture. I enjoy the flexibility to move at my own pace and the ability to visit not only the major sites, but to move off the “beaten path” and “explore.” There are so many wonderful places to be “discovered” and interesting local people to meet.
The ability to explore the US by car has been made possible by the heavy reliance we have placed on automobiles and trucks to transport goods and people. Over many decades we have developed a facilitating infrastructure. With a little forethought, one can be reasonably assured of finding access to food, fuel and accommodations along an excellent system of interstate highways and local roads.
There are frustrations that accompany travel by road. Construction can cause tie-ups and delays, as can hitting a major city during rush hour. Trying to push too far can lead to tense late-night searches for open gas stations, restaurants or motels. And neglecting to compensate for the height of the season in a major tourist center can also add to the challenge. More recently, an additional dimension has been added by trying to find a gas pump where you can fill up without having to take out a second mortgage on the house.
Signs are not always adequate and maps are not always accurate or up-to-date. When my wife, Beverly, and I travel together, she frequently concludes that we are lost. She is unable to understand that my reluctance to ask for directions reflects neither stubborn nor macho tendencies but is instead based upon the tried and true principle that, if I keep following the tip of my nose, we’ll get there. Most of the time we do. I, on the other hand, have been unable to convince her that navigation is not an arcane art devised by men only to torture women travel companions.
But all of this pales in comparison with similar experiences abroad, and especially in Asia. Beverly and I recently completed a 12-day, two-thousand mile trip up to New England and back, and each time we encountered frustrating events, we were able to relax and smile by thinking back to a similar experience trip we took in Japan. Everything is relative, including the degree of frustration.
Unlike the US, the Japanese tourism infrastructure is built for a much different type of travel – it’s all regimented. Trains or buses predominate. The first requires virtually split-second scheduling. The latter is extremely organized, with each bus disgorging its groups at an exact time and site, behind guides carrying flags to ensure that the various groups (all arriving at the same time) do not get mixed. Tourist hotels are geared to receiving those groups – and only those groups. We pulled into one fair sized city about 4 p.m. one afternoon and contacted one of the largest hotels (400 rooms +) about accommodations. They had a room, but due to the “lateness of the hour,” they could not provide us with dinner – they had already planned, to the head, for each of the guest arriving on the tour buses. We were able to find neighboring restaurants.
In Japan, everyone takes vacation at the same time – all going to the same places. As a result, there is huge demand for limited facilities at certain times of year. During the rest of the year, many of these places close or offer limited services. Consequently, there is very little requirement for the more casual atmosphere that we associate with motels.
One interesting effect of all this relates to road congestion. On the major Japanese holidays, more affluent people often travel by car, leaving the major cities to return to the smaller villages and towns where they were born, or heading to resort centers. Although Japan’s population is approximately half that of the United States, the country is smaller than the State of California. Only a handful of major arteries lead out of the cities. Consequently, when everyone moves simultaneously, the resulting congestion is incredible. On key holidays, the government issues advisories for the traffic jams anticipated at major highway intersections. Predictions often run to 80 kilometer back-ups or more. We saw one that extended 150 km (fortunately, as we were going in the opposite direction).
Aside from a few “super highways,” virtually all other roads run between closely situated small towns. The roads are narrow, particularly in the towns. A single traffic signal or a slow-moving truck can back up traffic for miles. Travel averaging more than 30 miles per hour would be considered a very fast pace.
Finding a place to stay becomes a real challenge. The first problem is the lack of motels. Most that exist are around the major cities, and the only “institution” that comes close are the “love hotels” that can be rented by the hour and seem to dot the landscape. But short of that, one must find an inn or a hotel in the larger villages or towns. Given the fact that almost all their guests arrive in groups booked by tour agents, there is no need for the ubiquitous billboards that line the US roadsides. And Japanese inns do not conform to a pattern that makes them readily identifiable, as in the case of US motels.
All this is compounded by the inability to read those signs that do exist. I’ve often thought of the disaster that can occur in a supermarket, when you can’t tell the label on a bottle of salad oil from that of a bottle of shampoo. While the roadside adventure may not result in foaming at the mouth, a similar type of effect can happen on the road when it’s starting to get late and you are looking for a place to stay. Traveling by car in Japan becomes quite an adventure – one that most Japanese find too daunting to attempt – something only a foreigner would do.
The road maps are something else. I’m sure they exist, but I have yet to find an accurate, detailed road map in Japan. For a country with such a strong technological bent, it is amazing. But this, coupled with the fact that addresses are almost meaningless (for example, in major cities, building are numbered not in geographical sequence, but by their chronology – i.e. the sequence in which they were built), makes it almost impossible to find a place without asking over and over again – assuming one knows what one is asking for. My wife was in seventh heaven, not only because I had to stop to ask, but also because her Japanese is far superior to mine she became our pathfinder.
As we compared our US and Japanese experiences, we also thought about the price of gasoline. Despite current high costs, nothing we paid on our way up and back to New England even approximated the cost of gas in Japan. One difference: here we spent a good deal of time looking for the cheapest station. There you knew in advance what the fixed price would be and you paid it.
Despite all of this, travel by car in Japan was an adventure that both of us will treasure forever. All of the advantages of traveling by car in the US were there. However, the frustrations certainly made those we experienced here seem trivial by comparison. Everything is relative. So next time you are on the road and fussing about something, remember, things could be worse (or perhaps different is a better adjective). But invariably, here or there, it will be worth the effort!
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